Hand-coloured photography surged in Meiji Japan as it opened to foreign trade. The influx of international visitors to Japan generated a demand for hand-coloured photographs, creating a lucrative export market. These souvenir photographs are of historical importance as they captured a transformative era in Japanese history, they preserved the essence of tradition and customs whilst adopting modern technological developments amidst rapid Westernisation.
The obi (帯) is a sash accessory in traditional Japanese dress, serving the dual purpose of fastening the kimono securely while also offering a canvas for artistic expression. Beyond its practical utility, the obi stands as a rich tableau for intricate design, with each motif and pattern imbued with distinct meanings that relate to seasonal themes, personal virtues, or aspirations of the wearer.
Katsukawa Shunsen (1762-1830)|
Courtesan in Kimono with Carp Design
c. 1820
Koi carp feature prominently on the oiran’s kimono, carp fish are symbols of perseverance and strength in Japanese culture, due to the fish’s tendency to swim upstream and resist the current. Carp are also associated with marriage as the word koi can also mean romantic love. The diamond Hishi pattern can be seen on the courtesan’s shoulder, this design is inspired by the shape of water chestnuts and represents nature’s resilience. Her obi sash is decorated with the geometric sayagata pattern of interlocking Buddhist manji symbols which are known to represent long life and prosperity.
This striking triptych depicts three courtesans, accompanied by attendants, parading under cherry blossoms. The left panel showcases kimono patterns such as the red seigaiha wave pattern and green, interlocking kojitsunagi. In the centre panel are the striped shima and chequered ichimatsu-moyo patterns with a dragonin the middle. The dotted shibori and red, heaxgonal asanoha can be seen on the right panel.
Courtesans paraded through the pleasure districts of Yoshiwara capturing the imagination of the onlookers. Offering a rare glimpse of the era’s most coveted beauties, these processions not only entertained but also influenced fashion, elevating courtesans to the rank of icons. Prints like these aimed to give an insight
into this glamorous world, spreading the allure of courtesans and their lavish kimono far and wide, while subtly promoting the Yoshiwara trade.
Mount Fuji is revered as Japan's sacred peak. Its snow-covered summit becoming the ultimate symbol of Japan by the Meiji period, it has consistently served as a prominent theme in kimono designs. Mount Fuji has remained a focal point of veneration, celebrated in poetry and immortalised in art. Traditionally adorning young boys' kimono, this motif symbolises aspirations for strength and resilience.
