Obi Pattern Design of Fans on Red, Kawarazaki Shodo (1889-1973), One Hundred Designs of the Four Seasons, 1938
An obi (帯) is a sash belt worn by men and women with traditional Japanese clothing, such as kimono. Obi originated in the Heian period (794-1185) as a thin, hemp rope but has developed into various styles and sizes becoming a major element of decoration in Japanese clothing.
Obi Pattern Design of Kites, Kawarazaki Shodo (1889-1973), One Hundred Designs of the Four Seasons, 1937-8
The Western fashion trends adopted by the government and Imperial court in the Meiji era were not popular with the public and many people still preferred to wear kimono and other traditional Japanese clothing (wafuku). In direct response to increasing Westernisation, traditional clothing experienced a renaissance and the kimono along with the obi sash established itself as the primary dress of Japan.
Women in particular were reticent to adopt Western clothing and continued to wear kimono as fashionable, everyday clothing. However, traditional Japanese garments were influenced by European tastes, Western clothing came to represent elitism alongside the use of aniline dyes, in particular purple and red, the first synthetic dyes which had previously been associated with high status individuals. Western-influenced traditional Japanese attire were symbols of progress whilst supporting the Empire.
Obi Pattern Design of Paper Cranes, Kawarazaki Shodo (1889-1973), One Hundred Designs of the Four Seasons, 1938
Women began favouring bold, bright designs in bright colours which were spread across the kimono and obi to showcase the design (even if sat on a chair in a Western-style establishment). The obi became longer and wider acting as a canvas for patterns as well as creating a more voluptuous silhouette following European beauty standards.
Obi Pattern Design of Cheques in Purple, Kawarazaki Shodo (1889-1973), One Hundred Designs of the Four Seasons, 1937
From the start of the 20th century Art Nouveau designs became popular for obi creating an aesthetic of stacked patterns and designs. Many of the designs were variations on traditional motifs such as arrows, cheques, flowers and birds. Art Nouveau obi belts and kimono allowed Japanese women and men to retain elements of tradition whilst embracing Western designs reflecting a modern spirit.
