KIMONO WITH CRANES AND PINE BRANCHES, EMBROIDERED RED SILK, 1920s
During the first decades of the 20th century, women massively moved to Western dress, especially those who entered workforce as office or retail workers. Elite women would mostly go on wearing Japanese dress, but often it would have been matched with Western haircuts and accessories, as can be seen in many paintings and woodblock prints of the era. For important celebrations and traditional festivals, kimono would be, however, a preferred choice for most Japanese women.
This uchikake kimono (outer kimono) is adorned with sparse embroideries depicting cranes and pine trees - two among the most important traditional symbols in Japanese culture. Cranes symbolise good health, longevity and happiness. The motif was systematically used for garments worn during wedding ceremonies, by the brides and their female family members, thus expressing wishes for a happy and long-lasting union. In this specific context, cranes would also imply values of love and loyalty, as well as resilience and ability to overcome challenges.
Branches of a pine tree symbolise good fortune and in particular such connotations as strength, resilience and good health, for pine trees remain green during winter and survive in harsh natural environments. They are traditionally associated with New Year celebrations bringing hopes of renewal and future prosperity. Predominantly a motif associated with masculine garments, it was also extensively used for decoration of women’s kimono as this one, in association with other floral or animal patterns.
This robe is a short-sleeve kimono, called kosode. It could have been worn by elite ladies for special occasions, or likely by a high class geisha. The intense red colour would also carry an auspicious meaning associated with good fortune. The red silk is adorned with a key-fret pattern (sayagata in Japanese) as a background, a very traditional motif in Japanese visual culture, used on textiles, porcelain and other media. Sayagata was originally a Buddhist symbol, epitomising life and strength. Motifs such as cranes and pine branches were also widely used on courtesans kimonos since ancient times. If worn by a geisha, this beautiful kimono would carry a multiplicity of auspicious meanings around good health and longevity, success and good fortune.
